And then there is one of her most unexpected stars: Her take on the humble, ubiquitous burger.
First thing first: The Ordinarie has always has incredible burgers—the aforementioned patty melt I stand by as one of the finest versions in the city—but Ulm's take, an ode to the SoCal staple-that-is-so-strong-it-borders-culty that is In N Out, is one that elevates The Ordinarie into offering one of the best burgers in the city.
Ulm's house made Thousand Island—just a hint of sweet but more toward the salty and tart—is slathered onto each side of the bun, where pickles and house-pickled jalapeños—a nod toward the packet of hot yellow chiles one can and should get upon request from In N Out—and good ol' American cheese and lettuce.
The result is a wonderfully nostalgic, this-is-what-I-remember-as-a-kid bites of a burger, where In N Out was more than a fast food joint but a destination toward something great. And with french fries that are not only some of the best in the city—let's not even go into the nonsense called "fries" from In N Out
—it is one way to rediscover why the Promenade, and particularly The Ordinarie, was such a beautiful way to experience our city.
And with a cocktail from the masterful cocktail master that is Michelle Bearden—as humble and welcoming as she is knowledgable and efficient—I assure you that it might, even if you have to put your mask back on for some reason, give you a sense that humanity can return to sharing food.The Ordinarie is located at 205 N. Promenade.